A radical, fresh season,
full of wit and joyous disorder,
that blends nature and artifice with brio,
takes clear positions on colour,
and affirms,
consciously and insouciantly, the energy of tomorrows.
It dedicates itself to the sustainable
and lauds the joys of the ephemeral.
It draws on the moment, to thrust itself into motion.
It soaks up many elsewheres to interpret them with skill.
It makes claims on space and takes its ease.
A season of nonchalant freedom,
with a gently grating flavour,
with a witting fullness,
that dares to cast itself in the thick of life,
with a light heart.
ACTIVATING
Seizing on freedom of movement as a driving force, and clearly affirming the importance of the physical and the sensory. Liberating oneself from all constraint, breaking free of rigidity, of materials or processes, in favour of action. Exploding shackles, gleefully messing up colours, decorations and textures. Saying no to fetters, leaving room between the body and fabric, and wrapping oneself at will in a sensual and lively fluidity. Lauding ease and fullness as indispensable, elaborating silhouettes with fabrics allowing graceful movement. Making the connection between elegance and nonchalance.
Take a deep breath and GO FOR IT
WITH the lightness of ultra-fine, dense and opaque fabrics, delicate as petals. Cottony or woollen suitings that are refined to the extreme, jerseys and shirtings with grains finer than the most delicate skin, synthetic ultra-featherweights to snap in the wind, ethereal silks that embrace the breeze. Floaty fabrics to favour fullness, to provide weightless cover while eschewing limpness or transparency, and to trace the body’s movements without hindrance.
WITH motion, and enveloping oneself in fabrics with a boosted liveliness. Taking flight with fluid and dry crepes, foamy knits, energetic synthetic and natural blends, with cold handles. Dashing ahead with springy linens and blends with manifestly wild, dry and harsh handles. Revelling in the unexpected shivers of crepons and mini-seersuckers with unpredictable volumes. Adopting the no-fuss liveliness of shivering, softly washed and gently worn cottons and silks. Being moved by the malleability of stretch fabrics to achieve just the right dose of ergonomics, lightly sculpted to move without hindrance, and initiating cuts that alternate fit and ease.
WITH fantasy, thanks to the impertinence of disarranged motifs, of joyful disorder, of moving geometries, of scattered bouquets, of colour-woven conventions shattered by new proportions and colourways, and also by the spontaneity of sketches and scribbles.
WITH the paleness and optimism of matt, filtered, washed light. Awakening to the energy of lighter-coloured suitings, of end-and-ends or chambray shirtings. Brightening with the irregular light of chalky coatings and whitened denims. Linens washed out in sunlight and jacquards elaborated with faded halos. Illuminating with lightly pearlised reflections, with nacre taffetas and iridescent crêpes. A radiance that infiltrates with a sure determination, for a sprucely fresh elegance.
IDEALISING
Determinedly the championing the freedom to be, and individual intuitions, beliefs and emotions. Embellishing tomorrows, emphasising reality, sublimating nature, ennobling the present, and exalting improvisation. Giving oneself license to choose the multiple over the binary, to believe in astonishing combinations, in the force of many. Opening one’s eyes without prejudice and spontaneously playing on the richness of elsewhere to create improbable alliances. Juggling references and unhesitatingly accepting contradictions, with lightness and passion, and joyously enlisting in a better tomorrow.
exalting the natural and sublimating the artificial
Clinging to vegetal subtlety, making it discreetly evident to the touch, enjoying its delicate visual revelations, soliciting its perfect gleam and idealising it by colouring it to the extreme.
Playing on contradiction through artificial gardens created from a fantasized nature, from reality that has been joyously outsized, from overly natural flowers. Ultra colours and plastic reflections elaborated with weightless, acid knits, shifted embroideries, and ultra-synthetic laces and silks.
upsetting the past and cultivating eclecticism
Flitting without prejudice among western and exotic folklores and customs. Allowing a sentimental view of idealised authenticity to interpret it impertinently. Drawing inspiration from cottony ingenuities - yesteryear’s tablecloths, towelling and shirts - to invent clothing of city «farmers,» imaginary and extroverted. Shirtings with electric stripes and checks, tops elaborated with a piquant transparency and biting jacquards, with resolutely contemporary accents.
Decoratively telescoping, juxtaposing selected elements of disparate styles and provenance. Collecting from all corners with the instinct of a connoisseur and the insouciance of an amateur: wittily allying yarn-dyes, ikat-looks, raffias, embroideries and prints. Overlapping genres and letting loose with touches of essential folly.
cheering up the ethical
Dreaming of a better world and creating a dialogue between ethicalness and fantasy. Signing on for a sustainable-development approach without giving in to moralising. Choosing bio-diversity and showcasing the ecological potential of synthetic fibres. Embellishing and sophisticating organic fibres and recyclable or recycled materials. Moving away from the weakness of the «totally organic» image, to connect fashion and respect for the environment with panache, through, among others, the panache of organic cotton.
RADICALISING
Affirming individual freedom of thought, throwing oneself wholeheartedly into creation, and committing to optimism. Fighting trivialisation, propagating the power of differentiation, and enthusing over clarity, generosity and frankness. Electing mattness, thrilling to volume, creating dimension from the inside, diving into materiality, and investing oneself in the artistic with colour and without compromise.
MATTNESS: getting to the heart of matter and refusing all deceptive vibration. Going for a deep and matt boldness. Elaborating with fabrics that absorb light and that express colour in mass. Jacquards, coatings and embroideries minimise shine. Cottons are softly emerised, linens are precisely washed, synthetics and woollens are muffled to eliminate lustre and affirm a matt regularity.
SIMPLICITY: pale and precise visuals and materials signal a need for ingenious function, free of useless artifice. The archetypes of workwear elegantly interpret their manifestly utilitarian visuals: canvas and light canvas are updated for fashion behaviours. Weightiness adapts to a material suppleness, either cottony or synthetic. Anti-stretch moves into blocked knits, thick silks, structured and strong cottons and linens.
SPACE: volumes are created from structures with an outward fragility and infallible architecture. Air is captured in structures, and volumes are configured from the inside, so the body can express itself with ease. Silhouettes are discreetly drawn from double and ethereal transparencies, are structured from rigorous pleatings and quiltings, or open themselves up generously to haphazard volumes with a light scent of libertarianism.
EXTREMES: appropriating generosity, and strengthening the vigour of contrast in shape. Choosing a mode of expression and affirming it without concession.
Standing behind decoration, and going with it all the way, to refute mid-sizes, exalting the obsessively minuscule together with monumental pictorials.
Getting carried away with invisibility through urban camouflage. Disappearing into urban motifs, playing on polished mimicries with suitings, denims, laces and silks.
Challenging cacophony, and adorning oneself in fabrics with silent, suave and creamy handles, to advocate a synthetic and silky softness, absolutely mute, with a radiant future.
The decorative and fluid universe throws itself enthusiastically into the season. Colour is a powerful vector of expression and personalisation, energising plains and magnifying decors. Silks move towards a cottony freshness, or become drier with a touch of linen or ramie. Weights grow lighter all in fineness, initiating a floaty fullness. In a luxury spirit, fluidity moves up alongside compacts and bulkiness for architectural cuts. Allying boldness, modernity and spontaneity, decoration reinvents exoticism and a countrified style, while avoiding nostalgia and cliché.
decors
+ floral: flowers in profusion, with highly varied handles and treatments, either scattered or accumulated flowers. Ultra-graphic, ultra-neat, ultra-contrasted flowers, or, in contrast, very pictorial. Mad botanicals interpreted in wild laces and luxurious embroideries, in direct opposition to a cloying romanticism.
+ natural: a cottony and elaborated spirit, absolutely matt, is expressed in laces and embroideries, flouting convention. Country-style fine linens are extroverted, the outline of lace and guipure is thickened or underlined, eyelet embroidery is spectacularly enlarged, and tulles are oversized.
+ ethnic: easily identified patterns, transposed through modern graphic treatments and refined by their base fabrics, from delicate cottons or fine silks far from any raw authenticity. India, Africa or Oceania set the tone for jacquards and prints, or are luxuriously shifted in precious lace and embroideries, richly beaded or set off with applications.
+ affirmed: quite enlarged decorations and motifs, full-width tie & dyes, prints that overrun the frame for haphazard placement on clothing.
A season that also assumes its lack of limits: too overloaded, too lamé, too bizarre.
fantasy jackets and women’s suits
+ nature: fancy wools take on a raw beauty with irregular blurriness or raffia-style weaves. Lighter-coloured tweeds are set off with little touches of gold or silver.
+ worked: canings, piqués and matt jacquards inspired by home linens.
+ plain: allying marked visuals and colourful intensity, basketweaves and thick yarn fancies in perfect monochrome.
skirts, ensembles and dresses
Beyond visuals, behaviours take precedence and affirm themselves in extremes, very structured or very supple. In all blends and aspects, knits are essential.
+ vegetal: vegetal fibres begin talking the language of silks, or are hybridized with silk, for a natural sophistication. Linen or cotton crêpes grow finer and drier for a springier, truly matt fluidity; ramie is allied with cotton or silk for greater fineness and crunch. Shantungs are adorned in gleam and fibrous irregularities. For decoration, jacquards, cut yarns and elaborated figureds play on a cottony mattness, and show a fine household-linen influence.
+ structured: ottomans and basketweaves grow denser, and structure cottons and silks. Ultra-bulky organzas and gauzes grow rounder in all lightness.
+ melting: silent taffetas, unpolished silk satins, creamy viscose knits target a matt and cold suppleness, for a nonchalant fluidity.
- gleam: small metal accents bloom on the surface of jacquards, plastic shine comes in cellophane transparency, and metallics are darkened, looking asphalt-y or patinated.
tops
+ floaty: matt voiles, shivering crepons and ultra-light satin blend cottony freshness and silky softness, initiating fullness without weight.
+ fine: delicate jerseys, micro-ribs or openworking in cotton crêpe, and linen voile jerseys with very finely slubbed aspects, for tops that are both light and less transparent.
+ volume: fancies puffed up with air and shirred, bubble silks and jerseys, pleats for exuberant and refined tops.
Guaranteeing an elegance that is continually in motion, the formal and tailored universe underlines its convictions with firmness, subtlety and sobriety. Suitings and shirtings move in a clearer or more contrasted direction. Extremely precise weights and handles modulate men’s and women’s silhouettes. Lightness suggests fullness and a supple density invites more ergonomic design. Knits are luxuriously refined, or grow compact like wovens. Shirtings play on extremes in radicalness or refinement, breaking free of convention to stir up the silhouette. A carefully dosed boldness free of exaggeration or overload, in a pertinent quest for elegance.
summer jackets and coats
+ suppleness: density and thickness without stiffness for true coat volumes in summer. Doubles are luxuriously rounded in a dry linen-y or ultra-smooth and matt cottony spirit. Marked structures, hollowed-out basket wovens and diagonals are teamed with slightly softened hands.
+ performance: elegant, impeccable and water-resistant cottons thanks to totally invisible treatments and coatings.
+ neatness: piqués, honeycombs, basketweaves and ottomans incised with precision, discreet cottony fantasy to adopt in womenswear as in menswear.
men’s and women’s suits
+ paleness: ultrafine wool suitings or more relaxed linen blends grow lighter in tone. Grey and beige chinés are more luminous, inversed colourways show up on light grounds, end-and-ends and chambrays are very soft.
Less shine: wools with extremely subtle reflections play on phantom weaves and patterns revealed in the light. Fresh and soft wool/silk with controlled gleam.
+ ease: wools and cottons either pure or in high-tech blends are off-weighted to the extreme, yet remain perfectly opaque to perfect a floaty fluidity. In a more design spirit, elasticised suitings target an ergonomic and matt suppleness.
+ natural: wool and linen blends accentuate their urban identity through gleam, a slight woolly puffiness, and coded patterns that are discreetly disturbed by vegetal irregularities. Prince of Wales grow dryer, getting crispy right up to grainy aspects. More willingly un-formalised, linens, cottons and ramie interpret ticking-style herringbones and denim aspects with a nonchalant elegance.
+ cotton: true suiting cottons with fineness and hold, highly woollen visuals, fine weaves, stippled semi-plains and end-and-ends, micro tennis stripes, houndstooth and Prince of Wales.
+ forthright: radical, contrasted or enlarged tennis stripes.
shirtings
+ fineness: cottons with almost silky handles, impeccable voiles, percales and lawns, very light chic stretch, delicate elaborated plains.
+ colour: ultra-punctuated, with striking two-tone stripes, or extremely faded-in, with flamboyant rainbows.
+ discretion: kitchen checks are transformed into semi-plains, stripes grow smaller and lighter on end-and-end or oxford bases, complex and ultra-composed stripes are reduced to the extreme, prints play on an obsessive minuteness.
+ natural: subtly languid poplins or very refined and smoothed linen asperities for a less finished elegance.
knits
Polos and small knit tops are divided between cotton and linen. On the one hand, an ultra-light neatness, either piqué or mercerised, and on the other an ultra-chic vegetal fineness.
linings
Linings imitate or contradict the city panoplies. Either stretch or more fluid to adapt to the behaviours of suitings, fresh and graphic to imitate shirtings, or ultra flashy to play on bursts of surprise.
menswear focus
FULL LIGHT
Rigorously chic suitings and shirtings, deliberately chalky denim and sportswear, a composite silhouette unified in lightness.
RADICALNESS
Structure in raised weaves and in firm behaviours, forthrightness in intense plains, affirmed stripes and decors, boldness in contrasted and surprising combinations.
PHLEGMATIC ELEGANCE
An elegance approached with a distinguished nonchalance, and a distance tinged with humour. The natural and the chemical negligently intermixed. Shirtings and suitings that are gently un-pressed.
CHIC FULLNESS
A generous minimalism, a nobility to unfurl and consume without moderation, for clothing with «urban» codes, and audaciously out-of-sync proportions.
The relax universe reflects a season marked by freshness and paleness. Colour, affirmed or tender, plays a preponderant role; it is exalted through the prowess of treatments and finishings that confer a true sportswear identity. Men’s and women’s fabrics show off light weights, a softly elastic suppleness, or a clearly casual fluidity for a season that flaunts ease and a determined fullness. The influence of workwear is elegantly shown in weaves and weights, irregularities play on sophistication, and shirts and tops assume their relaxed fashion destination, lending pizzazz to silhouettes.
trousers and dresses
+ paleness: thanks to yarn-dyes largely composed of white; ends-and-ends, micro-stripes or houndstooths on light grounds; linen-y chambrays and tickings with chalky visuals, whitened through yarns or washings.
+ colour: coloured 5-pocket trousers with a 70’s feel, a neat intensity drawn from yarn-dyes with extremely covering weaves and colour layerings.
+ refinement: a very strong evolution of weights and textures that makes it possible to envision lighter trousers or floaty dresses. Fine and snapping poplins and gabardines; fancy micro-wovens, incised or sometimes finely disturbed by linen-y slubs; satin reflections in cotton/linen with smooth irregularities. Light finishings simply washed, surfaces that barely shiver, two-tones enlivened by tiny seersucker effects for an ultra-fresh, never sullied, relaxed look.
outerwear
+ sturdy: ultra-neat, hollowed light canvas, well-drawn herringbones and ripstops grow more tender through powdery colours and delicate finishings, while piqués and ribs take on density. Now stretch, true compact heavy weights grow suppler for greater ergonomics.
+ colourful: intensely matt coatings or colour/colour bondings for trenches and parkas destined to stand out.
+ gleam: discreetly pearly, or subtly wet coatings.
denim
Bright blue or baby blue, indigos take a firmer stance to colour, in paleness or intensity. Coatings play on overloading, with rusty or darkened effects. Colourways reverse themselves, with whites that overtake indigo. Weights and handles play on extremes: on the one hand, lightened and floaty denims conducive to fullness, and on the other, a search for a more robust materiality. Yarn-dyed denims evoke tickings and overalls reminiscent of industrial or farmer workers’ clothing.
knit tops
With simplicity and naturalness, cottony or linen-y knits are personalised, and lend new pep: refined openworking, energetic or sailor stripes, encoded multicoloured blurriness. More complex, double effects accentuate comfort and allow plays on visual and tactile contradictions: raw/cosy tubulars, air-structured quiltings and piqués, fleeces and plated knits contrasting synthetic gleam and cottony softness.
shirtings
A very fresh, luminous country spirit dominates the casual shirting offer, with elaborated figureds, dobbies and trousseau-style jacquards, seersuckers and crepons, or linen voiles. Handkerchief, towelling or gingham checks are freshened or enlivened by highlighted colourways. Shadeds are reversed, with graduations right up to white. Specific weights and a soft elasticity particularly target shirtdresses.
decors
Countryside and «far-off» references are both present. Boubou, jungle and Oceania influences are assimilated and interpreted quite freely. Flowers bloom in profusion, two-toned calicos with thousands of flowers, either tightly set or more graphic, stylised and lightened, or meticulously scribbled and filled-in.
In synergy with fashion overall, the activewear, beachwear and lingerie universe continues its quest for refinement. Subtler colours and more matt visuals lend greater chicness to activewear. Invisible technology is closely intertwined with fashion for maximum efficiency in everyday clothing. Performance is accurately targeted and adapted to the use of each product. Comfort remains at the heart of concerns. Lightness calls for fullness, favouring freedom of movement. Stretch combines with suppleness for ergonomics with structured design. Environmental contributions are of utmost importance in research, and ecologically respectful developments impose themselves as essential.
active sports
+ chic: a penchant for elegance is expressed, with sophisticated dyed yarns, masculine stripes and micro-patterns, extremely refined polo-style piqués in a chic tennis spirit. Cutting-edge performance is broken down from parkas to swimsuits.
+ colour and + refinement: dense and matt tones move away from the codes of active sports to favour a palette both intense and subtle, plains that are simple but ultra-competent: windproof, waterproof and/or breathing membranes.
+ targeted: in waterproof lightness with lightened ripstops, matt or slightly gleaming voiles. In high-performance ergonomics, with two-way stretch enriched by precise functions. In day-to-day well-being, with anti-bacterial knits, fast-dry and climatics with cottony visuals. In high-resistance, with silky synthetics and knits freed from stiffness thanks to lighter weights.
outdoor
+ cottony: outdoor wear cultivates its realignment with nature thanks to products with matt visuals. Fast-dry or water-resistant, pure synthetic or cotton blends adopt the codes of cottony sportswear: poplin, gabardine, piqué weaves, and finishings that are neat, or lightly patinated or washed.
performance in the city
Products definitively designed for everyday: silkier visuals with chic water-resistance, with micro suiting motifs in matt/shine contrast; refined, pearly, wet gleam; silent and supple featherweights or taffetas with more discreet elegance, completely opposite of «techno» crunchiness.
lingerie and under-garments
+ comfortable: lightness, fineness and stretch combine to create second-skin products, with a veiling or covering mattness. Cotton or viscose blends accentuate the sensuality and freshness of handles.
+ spruce: corsetry fabrics take on punchy colours, tulles are delicately geometric, stretch chantilly lace adopts intensely floral tones and motifs.
beach
+ bling bling: an extroverted beachwear, with affirmed, profoundly matt colours, with exotic or floral jacquards and prints, with highly contrasted retro graphics, right up to ultra-fancy knits, either very open or lamé/metallic.
eco-production
+ environmentally respectful: advanced work into eco-compatible and clean dyes and colorants. From yarns through fabrics, conserving resources, in particular water and energy, becomes concrete as well as research into biodegradability.
Recycling is also a target of research, with recycled polyesters or cottons used for a variety of products, from technical to everyday.
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